Pol Pot

Ok so I'm back in Phnom Pehn again and grateful to have people around me again. Saturday we decided to delve in to Cambodia's dark history. And dark it was. We started off at S-21. The first thing that struck me about this place was that it used to be a high school before the Khmer Rouge shut it down and turned it into a tourture prison. We decided to do it properly and get a guide which was a good idea although her english was not excellant. Still, we caught every other word. I was not prepared for the first cell we walked in and sort of wished we hadn't just eaten brunch (lucky i'm a nurse - i'll explain - one of the other volunteers, whose aunt is a nurse said you can always tell nurses apart - they are able to discuss poo while eating their lunch).
Anyway they first cell still had old blood stains splattered up the wall. We also saw many pictures of the tourtured prisoners and the tourture devices themselves (apart from the scorpions - I think they're dead). In another room we saw pictures of prisoners and the story told by one of their remaining alive relatives. Sad, sad stories including one of a lady who visited S-21 after it had been turned into a museam and discovered one of the prisoners was that of her missing brother.
It also contained pictures and stories of those who were forced to work at s-21 in fear of thier lives, also very sad.
After S-21 we made our way over to the killing fields. The site is an old Chinese graveyard. Prisoners who did not die of tourture or starvation were brought here in the truck loads, often having being told they were being sent to work in an office or something to that extent. It happened in the dead of night and loud music was played so the local villagers could not hear the screams. There is a monument at the entrance housing 9000 skeletons that were first found. The other 11,000 remain in the mass graves. The largest mass grave holds 450. One grave holds just women, foung naked alongsid their babies. Babies and children were killed because they had no use and the Khymer Rouge feared revenge and retribution if they kept them alive.
Guns were not used as that would be a waste of bullets. The prisoners were blindfolded and chained to each other and one by one beaten to death. Some were not dead when thrown into the mass graves. Babies were beaten against trees infront of their mothers.
As we walked around the site we could even see the evidence ourselves. The graveyard is next to a lake and during the rainy season clothes, bones and teeth woould start to appear on the path.
I can remember a bit about Pol pot from when I was younger and remember the significance of when he died (without a trial) but now know a lot more about this horrible period of very recent history. The sad thing is the trial has only just finished for some of the main leaders and yes they have been imprisoned - only one has shown an ounce of remorse. Some have been granted amnesty by the government to try and bring some peace to the country.

Sunday we had a relaxing day by a pool we found. Much needed I think.

Siem Riep

Off I went on a 6 hour bus ride to the north to see the temples. Guess what? I arrived at a quiet period. Not another westener to see which I didn't mind so much but my hotel - quite popular and luxary but I got a discount - had only one customer - me!
I settled myself in - there was a pool and I had, I won't say good but a book anyway. I found out you could rent DVD'S and to my shame revolutionary road, marley and me and the fellowship of the ring happened to find there way into my room.
The next day I hired a tuk tuk driver and it was temples, temples and more temples. 6 and a half hours of them. I saw about ten - satrting with the most famous- Ankor WAT and ending with my favourite Ta Phrom - where they filmed Tomb Raider. At Ankor Wat a man attached himself to me and straing showing me around. I finally clicked on after 10 minutes that he was a tour guide and not just a friendly bloke and brushed him off parting with $5 as I did. He cheekily asked for more though!
The bus ride home was long and dull today and they showed repeats of some cheesy Cambodian veriety show!
I was glad to get home and managed to catch the group on their way to dinner. Nice meal. Including the speciality which I didn't try but it was enough to have on the table - Tarantula!

Cambodia

So as some of you may have gathered things didn't start off so well in Cambodia. The whole pace of life just completly slows down. It didn't help that I arrived on a national holiday so to add to that the malority of shops were closed and the majority of the population suddenly had somewhere better to be! There were two other new volunteers on the same day as me which was lucky cause all the rest had gone to Vietnam - told you - missing something!
The next day the bomshell was dropped - instead of working in an orphanage - playing with the children, washing and feeding the babies, plaiting the girls hair (ok that bit wasn't on the website) and generally caring for the children all they wanted was teachers! Worse still you were put in a class on your own with no idea of the curriculam but they expected lesson plans etc... And to put the nail in the coffin I had the advanced class - 16 - 19 year olds who just looked bored as hell! I lasted one day.
The rest of the group when they came back had already bonded and although they were all lovely its always a difficult situation.
Still we managed to fit in a trip to the temple and silver pagoda. And I found the joys of skype - why had no-one told me of this - calls to England for 0.12p. Mabye they're trying to tell me something. And one other thing Cambodia, compared to eastern asian standards it quite expensive. So I apologised to the group leader and took myself of independent travelling on my own

Sapa

We took the night train to Sapa so had the day to relax in Hanoi, and relax we did. We found a spa and had a four hour package that included body exfoliation, body mud wrap, full body massage, facial, manicur and pedicure - 4 hours all for 50 quid!. The train station in Sapa is very close to the Chinese border. Luckily, or mabye not for our livers we found the bar on the train quite quickly....before we left the station! In there we befriended, among many some australian reality tv stars. They were really nice blokes who actually won the trip to vietnam on the show. On arrival to Sapa we managed to scam a lift on their tour bus.
After we found a hotel - 3 star, paid for 1-2 star, felt like 4 star - we had a sleep a shower and some food. Feeling much refreshed we also managed to tag along on the aformentioned blokes tour - a 3 hour trek down the mountain and up again stopping at the local village on the way. Sapa is very picturesque when you can see it - there's alot of fog. During the evening we found a cheep place to eat - us$1 for a main and stayed on for many beers, and maybe a small bottle of vodka. We had a sizeable group in our defense!
Quick mention here about the locals who try to sell you stuff. They are present in the whole of Vietnam and quite persistant, if you don't watch it you could easily buy 3 pillowcases, two hats and a musical instrument you don't even know what its for. In Sapa they take persistance to the next level and you actually get stalked. They will quite happily follow you down and up mountains and wait for hours outside your hotel. The only sad thing is while the mums at work the little childran have to fend for themselves - often selling too. You can Commonly see 5 or 6 year olds with their baby brother on their back.
The next day (friday) we arrange a moterbike tour to some of the remote villages. It was lovely, small little villages with no hint of tourism at all. After lunch - beef soup so I had a banana - we walked to a remote waterfall where all the locals swim. We had bought tshirt and shorts to swim in but we were assured by out guide and over moter bike driver that we were allowed to stip into our bikini's - infact they insisted. Soon after we found out why when we were offered a far, how should i put it, lets just say a personal massage. After a firm no we decided it was best to leave. We than had a hours ride back with these guys but i think thay had got the message!
Back to hotel, another sleep, another shower and more food and it was time to go home - well back to Hanoi. We artrived in Hanoi in time to meet a privat cab driver at 5am who promtly took me to the airport for my 8.30am flight. Don't worry mum - remembered my passport.
We have had to give our passport to all hotels on arrival so the police can track all travellers!!
I am now in Cambodia......

Halong Bay

Without a doubt my favourite part of the trip and Vietnam altogher. It is a three hour bus ride from Hanoi. When we got there we immedialtly boarded our private boat for the four of us with the crew actually out-numbering us. It is nicknamed the honeymoon suite because fo the service and the luxary of the boatand it lived up to its name. No funny business though! Halong Bay is in my opinion the most gorgeous area I have seen in my long years. We had perfect weather, apparantly it is set to storm today. We went swimming, had luch, dinner and breakfast the next morning on the boat. We explored the local caves. This morning we went kayaking. Last night we felt obliged to drink some of the boat's white wine.
What more can I say. Pictures to come will explain all. This is when I get around to putting them on!
Hope England is nice! ;-)

Hanoi

We arrive at the capital after an early morning flight. After showering (much needed) and eating (mabye not needed but enjoyed) we set of to explore the city. And I thought Ho Chi Minh was bad. Several people had warned me along the way. This city is literally buzzing. We arrived at the Hanoi Hiltern. Not our hotel, no, but actually waht they now refer to as the old prision that they French built and they used to imprison the Americans during the war. Called so, as a joke obviously, because thats where the Americans would have prefered to end up!
We ahd an amazing breakfast here at a non profit cafe to give disadvantaged Vietmanese children the chance of a better life. And my stomach was grateful for it. You could have anything from Vietmanese to English to continental breakfasts and plenty of fresh fruit!
We are now back in Hanoi (up to date) after spending the night in Halong Bay. Our tour finishes tomorrow and I will have to say goodbye to Alex who is going back to America (L.A) and our group leader Sonny. But have a farewell dinner tonight and then I cant lie proberly more bar action. Tomorrow night I will be catching an overnight train furthe up north to Sapa with the rest of the tour group - Alice (who has an extra week in Vietnam).

Hue

Pronounced Hue0-a!! A short bus ride later and we arrive at another coastal town. Today was a scortcher but we ahd a full packed day to enjoy. The most special was a trip to one of the many but most famous Pagodas. It is set on a big site and had beautiful grounds. It is run by nuns and is actually used as an orphanage for about two hundred children. As per usual as soon as we arrived we were treated like celebrities - and not z-class. The children surround us asking that we take photos and the look on their faces to see their pictures immediatly was quite touching. One little girl borrowed my camera and I have several nice shots of the wall and floor. The nuns and children had prepared us a wonderful and (thanks to the teachings of Buddha) vegetarian feast. And a feast it was. Later on we had a beer at a floating cafe. I bought a watch and we ahd dinner at a local resturant where we decided to ask for the three best things on the menu to share as a surprise. The owner loved this. Then on to a bar - bad pool, bad dancing, met more travellers and had more beer.
During our trip we ahve took several cyclo rides - you sit in a comfotable carrige type seat which is connected to a cycle at the back. On our way to the bar we were approached by - most likely the hundenth cyclo man asking to escort us so we decided to turn the tables. To our surprise they agreed and we ended up cycling them in the crazy Vietnamese traffic and then paying the at the end. Good fun though.

Hoi An

This time we caught a flight - the joys of being on a comfort tour. Beware of this town. It is lovely to wonder around the old steets and by the river. It is also lovely if you like holy relic sites. It is not lovely if you don't like to shop.
This is the town of clothes and the beat place to go if you want fitted clothing made specially for you, or footwhere. Of course I'm all up for trying out new experiences so I forced myself to have several new dresses made and a skirt and a pair of shorts and a few tops...
We arrived here on a rainy day. It is not flood season just yet but while we were having lunch we watched to water rise up the back steps of the restaurant. The river banks overflowed and you had to doge you way around or through at some points. Some cafes had to resort to using boats to escort customers to their premises.
This was a lovely break from the heat though and the river was lit with lanterns at night and very picturesque. We met a couple of south african lads, played pool very badly and then sat on a wall and watched the weird animals floating by.
If you ever visit Nha Trang just beware of how much you want to buy and pay because they are very good at convincing you to get just that one more item!

Nha Trang - headed up further north. We caught a sleeper train to get here which was an interesting experience. We are starting to meet plently of other travellers doing the whole of Vietnam but they seem to be going the other way - all to come then ;-)
Nha Trang is the first coastal town we reach and it is gorgeous. Here we relax a bit, explore the town and swim in the lovely warm sea. What made me ever think I should swim on the British coastline i'll never know.
We took a boat ride and visited a little fishing village where the fishermen start early to get the beat fish. Then its beer o'clock, food, sleep and karioke! the same routine every day. The also have cock fights on a sunday. Here two little girls got very excited at our presence and decided to follow us. Cue great photo opportunity and they were happy to oblige by high fiving and sticking their tongues out.
We also had a go at snorkelling, para-sailing and relaxed in a mud bath.

Mekong Delta

The palce where I encountered the snakes. The twisting river reminded me of what I assumed the Amazon would be like (only slightly smaller). This image was confirmed when a snake was pointed out swimming behing a vietnamese woman on her boat. Ok it was only about 20-30 cm and no anaconda but i still felt like I was in the middle of a horror film. We saw a brick factory and a rice paper factory. The people work there for 12 hour days for very little money but never complain.
We stayed in a lovely home stay with an elderly couple, their youngest son and his wife and children and other members of the extended family. They cooked us a massive feast. And yes they had a pet snake - luckily for me it was kept in a cage but rather off putting when you are trying to eat your dinner - I managed! The next day we saw the floating markets which are exactly waht they say on the tin - markets on boats!

Ho Chi Minh City

The first thing you notice about HCMC is the traffic - forget driving in Paris there is no way you would make me get behind a wheel in this city. There is a huge population here so everywhere is very busy. Motorcycles are not afraid to swerve around big buses who in return are not afraid to use their horn.Here I met my very small tour group - an American photographer/ I.T manager and an Australian nurse. Together with our private Viatmanese tour guide we have a very intenational group.The evidence of the French existence in the city still remains in the beautiful architecture. We saw a very beautiful Notre damm and the most elegant post office you have ever seen.Pagoda, hospital and motorbike and cyclos

Chu chu tunnels
Apparantly you could get to Cambodia in the very long and tight fitting tunnels. We didn't ahve our passports on us so had to make do with just 30 metres of widened tunnel for tourists. I think they may have realised we (all tourists) are slightly bigger then your average Vieatmanese. Still we had to croutch all the way through. We had one guide with one torch who sped through the tunnels with ease while we stumbled along behind in the semi darkness trying not to whack our heads. We did however manage to pause for photographs. The whole site is set up to show some of the harships of the "American war". We also spotted some of the traps which were originally made as tiger traps but happened to come of some use during the war.